Rewind Vintage Affairs
Rewind Vintage Affairs Press Release
Our editorial team is dedicated to finding and telling you more about the products and deals we love. If you love them too and decide to purchase through the links below, we may receive a commission.
Chanel die-hard fans, bookmark this page! Luxury e-commerce website Farfetch has collaborated with rare** vintage specialist store Rewind to bring you a 50-piece collection of clothes and accessories **from the French fashion house. The collection spans from 1988 to 1991 and was a private collection of Catherine McNulty, a glamorous socialite who collected rare Chanel pieces.
‘I’ve been collecting Chanel pieces since 2003,’ says Clau
dia Ricco, founder and CEO of rare vintage specialist store Rewind. From the collection, fans will notice a particular focus on iconic archival Chanel pieces from the 1980s onwards, worn by Chanel muses such as Inès de la Fressange, Yasmin Le Bon and Claudia Schiffer.
When we first saw this particular collection it felt as though we had opened up an Aladdin's cave of the most fabulous pieces, with the most glamorous stories behind them,’ notes Claudia.
Shop these rare exclusives below, where prices start from £295.
Chanel 1991-1994 CC logos quilted mini bag
Look in the mirror and say this: "I deserve a new bag". We couldn't agree more. Boasting a quilted design, this Chanel Pre-Owned mini bag is about to make your day - all you have to do is add it to your cart. What are you waiting for?
Chanel 1990s CC button jacket
Casual Fridays are a thing of the past. This wool single-button jacket from Chanel will make you want to suit up every day of the week.
Chanel 1990s CC logos quilted shoulder bag
Go on, make your day. Boasting an elegant quilted style and plenty of interior space, this Chanel Pre-Owned bag will fulfil your deepest fashionista dreams.
Chanel Camilla Pre-Owned Brooch
Bring a touch of spring to your lapel. Woven from optic white cotton, this Chanel brooch has been crafted to resemble the brand's iconic Camellia rose motif.
Chanel 1990s woven striped skirt suit
Mondays never felt this good knowing you'll wake up to this Chanel striped skirt suit waiting for you. A light stride and a gracious smile - this is the Chanel effect.
Chanel’s 2.55 bag and Hermès’s Kelly and Birkin models are three of the world’s most coveted designer handbags owing to their expert craftsmanship and exclusivity. Investing in one of these luxury accessories via a vintage seller is not only a way of securing a piece of fashion history to pass down to future generations, but also of championing a sustainable approach to shopping – one that will ultimately help fashion advance towards a greener future.
“Fashion shouldn’t feel disposable,” British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful said of his decision to dress Taylor Swift in archive Chanel for the January 2020 cover. “The best clothes can be worn time and time again and have the quality of both design and craftsmanship to ensure their staying power.” Indeed, as Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion passes, style remains.”
Here, British Vogue speaks to seven vintage experts from consignment websites, bricks-and-mortar treasure troves for the retro obsessed, and luxury e-tailers to find out how to source an authentic designer bag to buy now and wear forever.
Trust your source
“The first, and arguably the most important, thing to consider when purchasing a designer vintage piece is to evaluate the source,” says Seth Weisser, co-founder and CEO of What Goes Around Comes Around, which has been one of New York’s premiere purveyors of vintage for almost three decades. “Do your research on the seller or company you’re buying from and be wary of marketplaces where you don’t have access to information on the seller. The peace of mind you have when you shop with a trusted source makes the process so much more enjoyable and eliminates the stress of having to attempt to authenticate a piece on your own.”
Research the brand
“Each brand has unique codes which permit a buyer to verify the authenticity,” says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of fashion consignment platform Vestiaire Collective. “For example, Hermès uses famous stitches called ‘piqûres sellier’, which are hand sewn by craftsmen. The irregularities or imperfections are recognisable compared to machine work.”
“Most high-end designer brands, like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, will include a date code or serial number somewhere within the bag,” explains Oliver Purnell, the owner of Depop shop @oliversarchive. “Usually they’re quite hard to find within the inner lining. A lot of counterfeit vintage Fendi SAS model bags are currently in circulation, none of which have serial numbers.”
Google is your friend for these certification steps. “Compare care labels to online images of real versions to identify any inconsistencies and red flags,” advises Sharon Wolter-Ferguson, founder and CEO of Hardly Ever Worn It (HEWI).
Consider the scarcity
“We consider scarcity and impact factor at the time of production,” says Jesper Richardy, founder of Copenhagen emporium Time’s Up Vintage, whose customers include Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin. “Right now, there is a lot of interest in the major commercial successes of the ’90s and ’00s, but I believe that scarcity will be more important when investing in a luxury bag in the future. That means not only limited-edition bags from the big design houses, but also bags from smaller, independent designers which are harder to find, but have an important story to tell.” Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco, confirms that “limited-edition items perform exceptionally well on the resale market”. The rarest gems for her website are runway pieces, because they are created in small batches. “They are double or triple the price because you literally can’t find them anywhere,” she says. “We are always on the hunt for these one-of-a-kind items or pieces that will stand the test of time.”
Consider the scarcity
“We consider scarcity and impact factor at the time of production,” says Jesper Richardy, founder of Copenhagen emporium Time’s Up Vintage, whose customers include Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin. “Right now, there is a lot of interest in the major commercial successes of the ’90s and ’00s, but I believe that scarcity will be more important when investing in a luxury bag in the future. That means not only limited-edition bags from the big design houses, but also bags from smaller, independent designers which are harder to find, but have an important story to tell.” Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco, confirms that “limited-edition items perform exceptionally well on the resale market”. The rarest gems for her website are runway pieces, because they are created in small batches. “They are double or triple the price because you literally can’t find them anywhere,” she says. “We are always on the hunt for these one-of-a-kind items or pieces that will stand the test of time.”
Study the hardware
“Vestiaire Collective’s authentication teams will thoroughly check typography (the logo) as it’s often a slip-up area for copies,” says Hersan. “Every brand includes unique details to ensure they can identify a genuine item.” Examine the stamps on every piece of hardware, including zips, clasps, locks, keys and metal accents. “The font and placement of the branding is important, as is the quality of the hardware itself,” adds Weisser.
“Counterfeiters have focused on replicating the hot stamps and stitching, but they often can’t get the hardware right,” continues Purnell. “The brand engravings on small metal parts of the bag are usually so tiny that intricate replicators just can’t get it right.”
Feel the leather
“The things we look for when determining authenticity depend on the period and designer, but, in general, we like to have the bags in our hands to feel the quality of the leather,” says Richardy. Purnell agrees: “The type and quality of material used is an easy way to tell the authenticity of a bag when you’re familiar with the brand. For example, the classic Louis Vuitton canvas is quite thick and PVC coated with a slight grainy texture. Counterfeits are getting so good you can’t really confirm authenticity just from the canvas – you’d have to look at the stitching and hot stamps, too.”
Take care
Just because you’re buying vintage doesn’t mean your investment piece shouldn’t look nearly new. “Condition is one of my main deciding factors,” shares Purnell. “If you’re purchasing one of the current popular ’90s bags, then it might already have gone through 30 years of heavy use. If the bases of straps are cracking, it means they can easily break.” Don’t hesitate to scrutinise an item for tiny flaws or ask the vendor for extra pictures if shopping online.
Pre-loved sections on designer e-tail sites, such as Farfetch, guarantee items are in mint condition before they ship because, Maxim de Turckheim, Farfetch’s senior category development manager (watches and pre-owned), says, “That is what customers expect when shopping on [the platform]”. “We have even had customers ask us if a 30-year-old bag is new, as there is not a single scratch on it!”
Evaluate the price
“Around six months after a bag’s release, the item tends to hit the apex of its hype,” Ricco explains of her team’s valuation process. “At this point, it has been exposed to a large number of consumers. Some early buyers may start to sell their purchases on resale sites – for more than they paid if the bag is in demand, but often for much less when they realise the bag is not selling. When we see saturation of products – for example, when Phoebe Philo released Céline’s popular Trapeze bags – prices do decrease drastically.”
A bag’s value begins its decline between six months to a year after its release,” Ricco continues. “Large quantities hit the resale market during this time, and prices fall anywhere from 40 to 60 per cent below retail value. For all but a few elite bags, a nosedive is inevitable. Typically, a year after release, demand plummets and huge numbers of bags hit the resale market, fetching prices as low as 20 per cent of retail. A handbag’s ability to remain in demand is testament to its status as an investment bag.” Hermès’s Birkin and Kelly bags still sell for up to 150 per cent of their original price tags.
Ricco’s team consults past sales, price archives, discount retail sites, auction results and resale competitors before pricing a bag. “I prefer to sell things for a reasonably amount, rather than inflating them and sitting on stock,” she explains of her fair approach to valuation. A vintage expert will explain how they landed on the figure – so ask!
Picture it
Once you have checked the hardware, the lining, labels, stitching, zips, buttons, and holograms or codes to confirm the provenance of the bag and that nothing has been changed, it’s time to reassess why you are buying it. “With the growing awareness around sustainability, I really consider the value of an item to ensure I’m investing in a quality piece that will last,” says Hersan. “I will ask myself, ‘do I really need this? Will it serve a purpose, or will I get a lot of joy from this piece?’ If you’re conscious of shopping less, and you take care of everything you buy, your items will have a longer lifetime, thus reducing the environmental impact.” Well said.
Scoring an immaculate Chanel 2.55 or Hermès Kelly requires, as Ricco says, “a combination of experience, alchemy and mystery,” but keep in mind the above and don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Vintage sellers thrive off the thrill of the chase and hearing the stories behind accessories, so don’t be afraid to get in touch and start a dialogue.
Reference URL:
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/how-to-buy-a-vintage-designer-bag
Designer handbags should be seen as investments that last a lifetime and can be passed down from generation to generation. Styles from storied brands, such as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, are the ultimate examples of luxury. They have never gone out of fashion – and never will – and have historically increased in value over time due to the craftsmanship and heritage at their core.
“All of the main luxury designer bag brands are a safe investment to buy really,” affirms Oliver Purnell, the owner of Depop shop @oliversarchive. “The fact that they have been around for so long, and, more importantly, have always been popular and fashionable means they are going to be desirable 100 years from now.”
As well as the timeless classics, limited-edition pieces are worth investigating before you make a big purchase. “Rarity drives up the price,” says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of fashion consignment platform Vestiaire Collective. “A special colourway or one-off collection increases demand – for example, Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with Takashi Murakami”, which Rihanna is a fan of. Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco says that the rarest gems on her resale platform are runway pieces, because they are created in small batches. “They are double or triple the price because you literally can’t find them anywhere,” she says. “We are always on the hunt for these one-of-a-kind items or pieces that will stand the test of time.”
Herewith, are the three designer handbags that British Vogue’s network of vintage fashion experts collectively agree are solid investments to confidently buy. As Ricco says, sourcing your dream bag in mint condition is “a combination of experience, alchemy and mystery”, so don’t forget to consult our expert guide to authentication and pricing before you proceed to purchase.
Hermès Kelly
“The ultimate investment is an Hermès bag and we recommend the Kelly,” says Seth Weisser, co-founder and CEO of What Goes Around Comes Around, which has been one of New York’s premiere purveyors of vintage for almost three decades. Hersan believes that, “The history of the company adds to the exclusivity. There is a mystery around the bags which makes them even more sought after.”
If the story is the Kelly’s selling point, it’s a good yarn. Originally conceived in the 1880s, the saddlebag style for horse riders was reinvented by Hermès’s Robert Dumas in the 1930s. The trapezoid shape with sculpted flap and top handle – known as the sac à dépêches – was designed to be “a neat, plain, functional bag intended for independent, energetic women”, according to the brand. Then, Grace Kelly came along. The Hollywood star-turned-princess was first pictured carrying the ladylike handbag on the set of To Catch a Thief in 1955. Two years later, she held a sac à dépêches over her pregnant stomach as she announced her engagement to Prince Rainier of Monaco. The bag was instantly crowned the Kelly.
Chanel 2.55
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel first introduced the Flap Bag in 1929. “As women were becoming more active, she wanted to provide them with designs that matched their newfound freedom (and allowed them to go hands-free),” explains Weisser. In February 1955 (hence the 2.55 moniker), she launched the shoulder style, which became a house icon overnight. The chain strap was inspired by the tiny chains Chanel would use to weight the hems of her suit jackets, while the burgundy interior was a nod to her childhood uniform at the Aubazine Abbey orphanage, and the diamond-stitched quilting borrowed from the jackets worn by men at the races. No detail was overlooked: the back slip pocket was designed to store money, the central compartment created to house lipsticks, and a hidden zip pocket was reportedly excellent for storing love letters.
Louis Vuitton Keepall
Audrey Hepburn, Catherine Deneuve and Lauren Bacall all bought into the LV monogram, as Louis Vuitton luggage became synonymous with the globe-trotting lifestyles of the 20th century Hollywood elite. While the brand’s trunks went into the hold, the 1930-born Keepall was a stylish and spacious cabin-friendly travel companion. “Light, supple and always ready for immediate departure, the bag lives up to its name: those adept at the art of packing can easily fit a week’s wardrobe into the generously sized Keepall,” according to the brand. The capacious carry-on was such a hit that Hepburn convinced the house to create a mini version – the Speedy – to use day-to-day in the 1960s.
“The combination of brand heritage, craftsmanship and quality means that the Louis Vuitton Keepall has held its value,” affirms Hersan of the “really great investment”. “When Virgil Abloh dropped the shiny, iridescent Keepall it renewed the interest and created huge demand for the updated bag.”
Reference URL:
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/best-vintage-designer-bag-brands
Rewind is the ultimate destination for vintage and unusual pre-owned luxury handbags and jewellery that offers a shopping experience that is as safe and effortless to use as buying new.
