My love for Lahore has always driven me to unknown routes in search of more and more ancient remains. Almost fifteen years ago I visited Delhi Gate Lahore for the first time with my brother, who then had started architectural photography as a hobby. I was awe struck at the grandness of the gate at first glance and thought as if I am into another city, and yes I was. It was then when I wrote my first feature in a newspaper on the walled city. That was the inspiration I took from my first trip to Delhi Gate.
Since Lahore originated, it witnessed the seasons of turbulence and tranquillity. It remained a princely state and also got looted during riots. Fortunately, despite several attacks and ransacking Lahore remained in the limelight during different rules and empires of the sub continent. This can be claimed as a city which gave birth to the stories of many writers, scenes for the painters and empires for the rulers. Lahore became a dream city in the 1500s when the Mughal Empire settled here and made it one of the main capitals. Akbar, the Mughal emperor, built a thirty feet high fortified wall around the city with twelve gates. A Mori was made during the British era, which was given the status of a gate later, and now Lahore is known as a city with thirteen gates. Many of the gates have been demolished but almost five are still intact, which were rebuilt during the British era.
There is a no go area inside the Lahore Fort, and I am sure like me many of you are not familiar with it. This part is the backside of grand Alamgiri Gate known as the Royal Kitchens or the Shahi Bawarchi Khana. The entrance to this area is from the postern gate as you climb the steep at your right.
Constructed between 1671 and 1673 under the supervision of Fida’i Khan Koka (Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s brother-in-law and the governor of Lahore), Badshahi Mosque was originally planned as a place to guard a strand of the last Prophet’s (PBUH) hair. Badshahi Mosque’s splendor is influenced by the Jama Mosque of Delhi which was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. The Mosque was constructed just a few hundred meters to the west of Lahore Fort and the River Ravi was flowing nearby. The Mosque was built on a raised platform to avoid any floods at that time. The Mughal Emperor Alamgir ordered the placement of barriers at one point in the river so that the water would not damage the Mosque. With the passage of time, the river changed its bed due to those barriers and now we see River Ravi flowing far away. Aurangzeb also added the Alamgiri Gate facing the Mosque and the space in between, a garden was constructed, which was used as a parade ground where the Emperor would deal with his army and troops. Today the same garden is known as Huzoori Bagh which was named by Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. At present the Badshahi Mosque gives a splendid view of the Lahore Fort, Huzoori Bagh, Samadhi of Ranjeet Singh and the Roshnai Gate. Badshahi Mosque is a unique example of religious harmony as it shares a wall with the Samadhi of Ranjeet Singh, a Sikh religious site.
Underneath the marble floor was a whole new world to be explored. The astounding hypocaust system of the Royal Bath is what we know today as the spa or the sauna bath. That’s the Shahi Hamam or the royal bath and how many of us know about the wonder inside the Walled City of Lahore? Hardly a few. It is the only one of its kind in Asia now.
